Placencia, Belize: Maya Beach Bistro

It’s amazing how quickly the months fly by. It feels like just yesterday, but it has been three months since Brad and I were adventuring, relaxing, and drinking all the rum punch in Placencia, Belize. Not a day goes by when I’m not reminded of a special moment or place or feeling from that vacation. It was like a honeymoon but better because, after 10 years of marriage, we are more ourselves as individuals and as a couple. There is a level of comfort and intimacy that simply cannot exist when you are on your honeymoon, but after a decade of marriage, if you’re lucky, time has made everything so much better. 

Of all the places Brad and I have been over our 10+ years together, I think Placencia was the most surprising to me. It found its way into my heart in a way the typical tourist destinations in Central America wouldn’t have. I won’t soon forget how I felt when we were there. I’m tucking that feeling away in a special place for days when I really need it.Another thing I’m tucking away for a rainy day is the memory of an amazing meal we had at Maya Beach Bistro where we experienced unmatched hospitality and thoughtful, flavorful dishes. When we return to Belize, this will be one of the places I will be most excited to revisit. Between the beautiful setting and the simply amazing food, I completely fell in love with this sweet spot on the beach. Cocktails with that view? Yes. A thousand times yes. 

Our meal started with a trio of salads, brought to us by our wonderful waiter, Cedric. He was so kind and helpful the entire night. And the salads, the first of many stunning dishes brought to us by the talented, yet quiet and humble, Chef Mary Kay Bader (formerly of Potager in Denver). The watermelon salad was my absolute favorite. The sweet and salty flavor and combination of textures was perfect, especially paired with the humid, salty sea air.

From the grouper with pineapple salsa to the Belizean French toast with shrimp, the perfectly cooked red snapper, and the peanut brittle ice cream pie (a MUST order) every dish was creative and used Belizean ingredients and flavor combinations beautifully. I mean, Belizean French toast with shrimp? Love. 

All of the food was amazing, but my favorite thing we had that night was the seafood chowder based on a Garifuna fish stew called Hudut. The chowder, with creamy coconut, sweet potato, fresh herbs, and perfectly tender fish, rendered me speechless. I became even more in love with the dish when Chef Mary explained the inspiration behind it. There’s something so wonderful about taking a meal that has been enjoyed by generations and giving it a new look. That connection to traditional Belizean cuisine was evident throughout the evening, but especially in that bowl of chowder. 

One of the most important things a restaurant can do is make diners feel at home, cared for, and cared about. It's not so different from inviting someone into your home. You want the food to speak to them and to create a sense of comfort. Maya Beach Bistro succeeded at making us feel all of these things, from their warm, welcoming smiles to the creative, yet approachable, food.

If you’re heading to Placencia, I HIGHLY recommend visiting Maya Beach Bistro. You will not be disappointed! And if you see Cedric, please tell him Rachael and Brad say hello. :) 

Here is a list of everything we ate that night, along with a few notes about each dish:

• Trio of Salads: The watermelon salad was our favorite. Texturally and flavorfully interesting thanks to fresh watermelon and pickled watermelon rind. Sweet and salty.   

• Belizean French toast with shrimp: Savory, comforting, and full of amazing flavor. Presentation could be slightly better with the addition of a fresh garnish to offset the brown sauce. 

• Grouper: pineapple salsa has a subtle heat that hits the back of your throat but is immediately calmed by the pineapple and coconut. Works very well with the fish to make a satisfying, flavorful meal.  

• Leek Flan: Creamy & delicious! Sweet potato chips make it fun and approachable. Conch can be a bit tough but its texture goes well with this dish. 

• Seafood Chowder: SO flavorful. Wonderful twist on seafood chowder with inspiration from traditional Garifuna stew, Hudut.  

• Grilled Red Snapper over Spicy Root Veg: fish was UNREAL. JUICY, flavorful, perfectly cooked, fresh. 

• Peanut Brittle Ice Cream Pie: DO NOT MISS THIS. Pairs perfectly with a glass of port. 

What to expect (travel to the restaurant/during your dining experience):

• It took us about 20 minutes, by taxi, from the southern part of the peninsula to get to the restaurant. The total was about $20 USD each way. 
• The dining area is covered, but be prepared to weather the elements anyway. Bug spray is a good idea. 
• Staff is very friendly and accommodating. They are also very willing to make suggestions when it comes to food, cocktails, wine, and anything else you may need help with.  

Belizean Fry Jack Inspired Breakfast

Note: This recipe is based on my experience with the flavors of Belize and a fry jack I watched someone make and then was able to enjoy during our time in Placencia. To be clear, this is NOT the same as a quesadilla and if it is made with regular tortillas, it is not a fry jack. Fry jack refers to the fried dough and must be made the traditional Belizean way to be called a Belizean Fry Jack. To see how to do this, please check out this video for an excellent tutorial!

When we were in Belize, we got up early one morning to go on a river jungle tour, which meant we needed to find something quick and filling to grab on our way to the marina to meet our guide, Percy Gordon. There was really no telling what would happen that day, so we wanted to fuel our bodies and be prepared for anything. We stopped at a "fast food" restaurant where they were selling burritos and fry jacks. There was a line and they were clearly in no real hurry to prepare the food (Belizean time is slower than US time...I miss that) so a few people were waiting at the picnic table out front under a big red and white Coca Cola umbrella that looked as if it would blow away at the slightest sign of a storm. The air was hot and heavy, even at 7:30am, but the women behind the counter were diligently doing their work, creating delicious, simple breakfasts for a $2.50 per person. I started sweating just watching them in that small space, frying fry jacks filled with beans and cheese and eggs. 

When our order was ready, we took the foil-wrapped "fast food" to the marina and climbed aboard Percy Gordon's boat, where we were promised a day filled with howler monkey sightings, jungle medicine tidbits of knowledge, and perhaps a manatee sighting. In our early morning daze, we nodded our heads and mentally prepared for what was sure to be an exciting few hours. Once the boat began moving, we tore open the foil and bit into our fry jack, still hot off the griddle. The tortillas, which are soft and fluffier than the tortillas we are used to, are filled with a layer of beans, scrambled eggs, and cheese. Then, the whole thing is fried, creating a crispy coating on the tortilla that becomes pleasantly soft after sitting inside the foil. It's essentially a fried breakfast quesadilla. Can't go wrong. Am I right? 

I didn't have anyone teach me how to make Fry Jacks, but I did watch them being made several times. So, I did my best to put together a recipe with the knowledge I had and that's how my version of Belizean Fry Jacks was born. Unfortunately, we don't have a jungle tour to prepare for, but these are great as weekday morning breakfasts, or an easy, portable breakfast before going on a mountain hike. But let's be real: I usually eat this from the comfort of my own home. It's fine. 

This is a very basic recipe, if you can even call it that, and you can add whatever you like to make it your own. I like to keep it simple by using refried beans (I use the salsa style beans from Trader Joe's), scrambled eggs, and shredded cheddar cheese. They also had options that replaced the eggs with chicken or beef. I think chorizo would be quite nice as well. If you really want to give these a Belizean flavor, you can find the ubiquitous Marie Sharp's hot sauce at some grocery stores in the U.S. Otherwise, you can order it here. 

If you can't get a jungle tour lined up after breakfast when you make these, you can at least read about our 7 Days in Belize here. It was a magical trip. 

Belizean fry jacks

makes 4 fry jacks

• 4 flour tortillas

• 1 can salsa style refried beans (if you can't find salsa style, just stir in a spoonful or two of salsa into a can of refried beans)

• 8 eggs, beaten

• 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

• canola oil

1. Melt the butter in a large, nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Pour the beaten eggs into the pan and let sit for about 15 seconds before gently pushing them around the pan with a spatula. Continue to move them around the pan until the are cooked to your liking. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Spread half of each of the tortillas with 1/4 of the refried beans. Top the bean layer with 1/4 of the scrambled eggs, then sprinkle with 1/4 of the shredded cheese. Repeat with each tortilla.

3. In a large skillet, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat. Add two of the tortillas at a time and fry on each side for 3-4 minutes or until golden brown. (Tip: when flipping them, it helps to use a very large spatula)

4. Transfer to a cutting board and cut each tortilla in half. Serve with sliced avocado and hot sauce. Alternatively, you can wrap the fry jack, without cutting in half, in foil to take with you!